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Strong winds are battering the region as the cold front passes. Why the ocean looks calm despite the Gale Warning

A gale warning is in effect this afternoon for offshore wind blowing over 40 mph.

JACKSONVILLE, Fla. – Strong winds typically are the result of severe storms but this time the rain on Wednesday moved through without any severe weather, yet the aftermath has left windy weather in the wake of a cold front.

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Strong winds arrived from a tight pressure gradient between a departing low-pressure system over the Great Lakes and the cold front that pushed through during the afternoon Wednesday. As the cold front passed, winds gusted to peak speeds over 40-50 mph.

Wednesday actual gusts.

Cooler, dense air behind the front surged southward, accelerating winds. This post-frontal environment can create a classic setup for gusty conditions, especially when combined with dry air intrusion from the northwest, which allows momentum from stronger winds aloft to mix down to the surface.

Here are some top wind gusts by county:

Jacksonville – 52 MPH (03/05, 2:40 PM)
Jacksonville NAS – 48 MPH (03/06, 12:39 AM)
Mayport Naval Station – 48 MPH (03/05, 10:34 AM)
St. Augustine – 43 MPH (03/06, 1:07 AM)
Palm Coast – 43 MPH (03/05, 12:30 PM)
Saint Augustine Beach – 39 MPH (03/05, 10:00 AM)
Yulee – 39 MPH (03/05, 4:48 PM)
Fernandina Beach – 38 MPH (03/06, 12:18 AM)
Palatka Airport – 38 MPH (03/05, 4:55 PM)

Gale Warning Issued

Gale-force winds can develop in response to the same strong pressure gradient and cold front that impacted the region, extending the threat beyond land and into coastal waters.

A Gale Warning has been issued to warn mariners about the dangerous winds at sea. The National Weather Service issues a Gale Warning when sustained winds range from 34 to 47 knots (39 to 54 mph). These strong winds create hazardous conditions for small craft, often leading to rough seas and dangerous navigation.

Why does the ocean look so flat?

Despite the Gale Warning, Thursday’s nearshore ocean conditions appear calmer due to the strong offshore winds. When winds blow from land toward the ocean, they push surface waters away from the shore, reducing wave heights along the immediate coastline. This effect is particularly noticeable following a cold front when winds shift from the northwest or west.

Thursday morning flat waves at Jacksonville Beach from West winds blowing offshore.

However, this calm appearance near the beach is misleading. Farther offshore, where the wind has a longer fetch and more time to transfer energy to the ocean surface, waves build to dangerous heights. For example, Buoy 41010 reported winds at 47 mph with 15-foot seas.

15 foot seas photographed offshore Cape Canaveral, FL. Thursday morning at 8:10 am.

The stark difference between nearshore and offshore conditions is evident in photos from a camera mounted atop the buoy, showing significantly larger waves offshore compared to the flat conditions observed at the beach.


About the Author
Mark Collins headshot

After covering the weather from every corner of Florida and doing marine research in the Gulf, Mark Collins settled in Jacksonville to forecast weather for The First Coast.

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